Scandal Sandals and Lady Slippers: A History of Delman Shoes

“Not since Cinderella’s slipper has such footwear magic been worked as in the exquisite designs of … Herman Delman. ” — Atlanta Daily World, 1952

The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT) in New York City presented the Delman Shoe exhibit this past spring the first exhibition devoted to the Delman brand. Founded by Herman Delman in 1919 and today one of the oldest salon footwear brands in the United States, Delman’s glamorous, innovative, and classic shoes have been a cornerstone of the fashionable and quality-conscious woman’s wardrobe for the past 90 years.

Drawing from the permanent collections of both The Museum at FIT and the Delman archives, approximately 50 dazzling shoe styles were displayed alongside period examples of print advertisements, newsreel footage, and illustrated patents. These objects, dating roughly from 1926 to 2007, chronicled the company’s rich history and creativity in both design and business.

Among the shoes displayed was a pair of multicolored, floral booties with a turn-back throat from the 1950s. Boldly original in their dramatic use of blue and purple hues, the booties draw attention to the lower leg. A pair of suede, instep strap sandals from circa 1939 performs a similar function. Boasting red, white, green, and blue color sections, four tiny bows are sequenced delicately down the vamp while a narrow ankle buckle strap, oval toe, and triangular heel maintain the shoe’s elegant silhouette.

Delman, cocktail shoe, multicolor  floral print with gold brocade,  circa 1958, USA. On loan from  Delman archive.	Delman, ankle strap sandal with  peep-toe, red/blue/yellow/green  suede, circa 1939, USA.  The  Museum at FIT.

Herman Delman, who specialized in building shoes that were chic, yet comfortable, believed that skilled construction was essential to the creation of a quality shoe. He also was keenly aware of the importance of style and employed several notable designers over the years, including Roger Vivier, Herbert Levine, and Kenneth Jay Lane, as a means of shaping not only the aesthetic of his company but also the tastes of fashionable women across the country. Scandal Sandals and Lady Slippers: A History of Delman Shoes featured three decades of shoes designed by Roger Vivier, as well as a pair of circa 1965 white leather Mary Jane heels ornamented with multicolored embroidered flowers and conceived by Herbert Levine. Each of these examples represents the characteristic trends in women’s footwear that helped to define the fashion-conscious woman’s wardrobe.

Also displayed, from Delman’s “Moulin Rouge”collection, was a pair of sling-back evening shoes that was featured in the company’s 1952 fall/winter line. Covered in bright red satin, these exquisitely designed shoes featured an open toe and draped vamp with peaked throat. A tall continental heel and halter-style buckle sling strap added to the luxurious craftsmanship of the shoes while simultaneously maintaining a high level of comfort.

Herman Delman’s savvy proficiency as a businessman and extroverted personality was frequently realized through his use of exquisitely illustrated advertisements and eye-catching window displays (the Delman store on Madison Avenue featured an oval window showcasing three cobblers at work), as well as his early understanding of the power of celebrity. His designs will forever be associated with iconic leading ladies of the Silver Screen. Marilyn Monroe, Joan Crawford, and Marlene Dietrich all wore Delman, while today celebrities such as Anne Hathaway, Blake Lively, and Leighton Meester are often spotted wearing the company’s designs at premieres and in photographs.

Delman’s enterprising use of celebrity played an integral role in his effort to market his shoes as an expression of the poised and idealized woman. He would often release ready-made copies of designs that had been made exclusively for movie stars. Scandal Sandals and Lady Slippers: A History of Delman Shoes included ready-to-wear copies of the shoes Queen Elizabeth wore to her 1953 coronation, as well as Delman’s circa 2000 reinterpretation of the design. [Editor’s Note: We found a Harper’s Bazaar August 2009 editor’s letter noted that French shoe designer Roger Vivier had designed the Queen inauguration shoes!] Also  displayed was a pair of evening sandals from circa 1958 designed after Irene Castle’s “Scandal Sandal” dancing shoes. The metallic cord and leather detailing on the shoes beautifully complement the gold metallic high heel and make these evening shoes the perfect accessory for a night on the town.

Delman, peep-toe cocktail shoe,  red satin, 1954, USA. The Museum  at FIT.  Gift of Mrs. Janet  Chatfield-Taylor Braguin.	Delman, day shoe, black silk faille,  circa 1937, USA.  On loan from  Delman archive.

Delman was also known for his custom-made shoe services. Among the shoes  in the exhibition were a custom-made pair designed for Mrs. Carrie Munn. Married to a prominent publisher, Mrs. Munn opened her own dress shop on Madison Avenue in 1942 and was known for her extravagant parties at the Waldorf-Astoria. The surfaces of her closed-toe, velvet pumps, which are cleverly printed to resemble feathers, highlight her appreciation of fashion-forward design.

Perhaps Herman Delman summed it up best:  “Delman means a shoe stylized in sophisticated taste — not garish, not over-conservative —  a thoroughly wearable shoe.” This July the summer sale is going on.